Instore Pickup & Local Delivery
Instore Pickup & Local Delivery
Your Cart is Empty
Add description, images, menus and links to your mega menu
A column with no settings can be used as a spacer
Link to your collections, sales and even external links
Add up to five columns
Add description, images, menus and links to your mega menu
A column with no settings can be used as a spacer
Link to your collections, sales and even external links
Add up to five columns
March 03, 2026 5 min read
Summer can be the season where “little” management choices snowball into big problems — dehydration, heat stress, gut upsets, poor recovery, and the classic combo of “my horse is flat, picky, and not quite right.” The tricky part is that most owners are doing the best they can… but a few well-meaning habits don’t hold up in hot weather.
In this article we explore the top 5 things that horse owners shouldn't do in summer - and what we should be doing instead!
Why it’s risky in summer:
Summer conditions (especially hot and dry) often reduce worm larvae survival on pasture, and blanket worming “because it’s time” can be low value. More importantly, unnecessary worming contributes to dewormer resistance over time — meaning the products don’t work as well when you really need them.
Heat can also make handling more stressful. If you’re yarding, washing, traveling, and then worming on top, that’s a lot for a horse that’s already working hard to stay cool.
Do this instead:
Use a fecal egg count (FEC) as your decision tool (and treat strategically). If your horse is in a high-risk group (young horses, horses with a history of high counts, poor doers), talk to your vet about a summer plan.
To keep worms at bay, we recommend the following:
Helpful note: Always read labels and follow veterinary advice for individual horses. A good worming plan is targeted, not random.
Why it’s risky in summer:
Psyllium is popular for sand management (and it can help bind sand for some horses), but it works by forming a gel and absorbing water. In hot weather, the last thing you want is a horse running slightly dehydrated plus eating something that relies on water in the gut.
Also, psyllium is generally best used as a short course rather than a daily, indefinite supplement — especially if it’s being used “just in case” with no real sand risk.
Do this instead:
If you’re in a sandy area or your horse is at risk, use psyllium as a planned course and make sure water intake is strong. It is generally recommended that psyllium husk be fed everyday for 5-7 days per month.
Consider the format your horse actually eats reliably (loose husk vs pellets).
If your horse is off water, not finishing feeds, or you’re in extreme heat — pause and reassess first. Do not feed in extreme heat or in heat waves due to increased risk in colic.
Practical tip: If you’re starting psyllium, it’s a great time to also ensure your horse has multiple clean water sources and shade — these basics matter more than any supplement. To entice your horse to drink, you can try different water types such as molasses, a drinking supplement and electrolytes.
Why it’s risky in summer:
This is an old myth that hangs around: “Don’t let them drink too much after work or they’ll colic.” In hot weather, dehydration is a bigger and more immediate risk than a horse drinking freely. Horses cool themselves largely through sweating — and when they sweat, they lose both water and electrolytes (salts).
A dehydrated horse may show:
slower recovery (still puffing after work)
tacky gums / dry mouth
reduced appetite
darker urine
dull attitude or “flatness”
Do this instead:
Offer free access to fresh water and focus on replacing losses sensibly:
plain water always available
electrolytes for horses that sweat (work, travel, hot days)
loose salt available for many horses (depending on diet and vet advice)
Simple rule: If your horse is sweating, they’re losing electrolytes. Water alone is essential — but sometimes not sufficient for recovery.
Why it’s risky in summer:
When a horse is truly hot, the goal isn’t just to keep moving — it’s to bring core temperature down. Heat stress can escalate fast, especially with humidity, poor airflow, heavy rugs, or high-intensity work.
Red flags include:
breathing not settling after a reasonable cool-down
hot skin that stays hot
lethargy or wobbly behaviour
dehydration signs
not wanting to drink
Do this instead:
Use active cooling:
get them into shade + airflow
hose continuously with cool water all over the body
keep cooling until respiration and body feel normal
if you’re concerned, call your vet — heat illness is not something to “wait and see” on
Extra note: Rugs can be helpful (UV, flies), but the wrong rug in the wrong conditions can trap heat. Fit and fabric choice matters.
Why it’s risky in summer:
Summer brings enough gut disruption already: pasture changes, heat stress, inconsistent water intake, travel, and reduced appetite. Then we add: “He’s doing less work, I’ll cut his feed in half starting today.” That’s a recipe for a grumpy hindgut.
Do this instead:
Keep fibre consistent (hay/roughage is the foundation - aim for 1-1.5% of bodyweight per day)
Make adjustments gradually over 7–14 days
If you need to reduce calories, do it by choosing a more suitable feed, not by sudden restriction
Ensure vitamin/mineral coverage stays adequate — many horses look “fine” until they don’t
Quick check: If you reduce hard feed, ask: “What is covering vitamins/minerals now?” That’s where a balancer often quietly earns its keep.
If you want a simple weekly routine, run through these five questions:
Are poos normal and consistent?
Is water intake strong?
Is sweat/recovery appropriate for the workload?
Is appetite steady and attitude normal?
Has pasture/hay changed recently?
If you answered “no” to any — don’t panic. It just means it’s time for a small, targeted tweak.
If you’d like to support your horse through the warmer months, you can shop the full summer essentials range online or visit us in-store. We stock everything from electrolytes and salt options to psyllium/sand support, gut support, balancers, feeds, and cooling essentials—and if you’re not sure what’s best for your horse’s workload or conditions, just ask. We’re always happy to help you put together a simple, practical plan and point you to the right products for your setup.