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February 16, 2026 4 min read
Australian summers can be brutal on horses. They’re big animals, they generate a lot of heat when they move, and they rely heavily on sweating to cool down. The good news: with a few smart routines—hydration, shade, electrolytes, and correct cooling after exercise—most horses cope really well.
Below is a simple, horse-owner-friendly checklist you can use all summer.
If there’s one summer habit that pays off, it’s making it easy and appealing for your horse to drink.
Best-practice hydration tips
Unlimited clean, cool water (refresh often in heat—buckets and troughs warm quickly).
More than one water point if you can (especially in paddocks with groups).
Offer water before and after riding, and again once the horse is settled.
Salt encourages drinking. A little extra salt in the diet can help stimulate thirst and support hydration in hot weather.
If your horse is fussy, try two buckets: one plain water, one “temptation” water (see salted-water tip below).
A handy trick: lightly salted water
Some horses will drink more if offered slightly salty water in addition to plain water. It is thought that mildly salty water after exercise can stimulate thirst and increase water intake. (Important: always provide plain water too, and don’t force salty water on a horse that refuses it.)
If you would like to browse our salt range, including loose and salt licks, visit our range here.
Sweat doesn’t just lose water—it loses salts (electrolytes), especially sodium and chloride, plus potassium and others. Replacing those losses helps your horse retain hydration and recover.
When to consider electrolytes
Your horse is sweating noticeably (work, travel, competitions, hot spells)
Multiple hot days in a row
Horses that “dry off salty” or take ages to recover after work
A simple rule of thumb
For everyday needs, many programs start with plain salt to cover baseline sodium/chloride requirements, and then use a proper performance electrolyte when sweating demands increase.
How to use them safely
Add to feed (often easiest and most consistent), or use a paste for specific situations.
Don’t put electrolytes in the only water source—always keep plain water available so your horse can choose.
If a horse is already dehydrated, water intake comes first, and then electrolytes can help restore balance.
We offer a good range of electrolytes at affordable prices - browse our range here.
Often the biggest wins are environmental.
Make the environment cooler
Shade is non-negotiable: trees, shelters, shade cloth—anything that gives relief during peak heat.
Airflow matters: a breezy paddock beats a still, enclosed yard. In stables, fans can help (safely installed, cords protected).
Sprinklers/misters can help some setups, but don’t rely on them alone—humidity can reduce evaporative cooling.
Ride smarter
Aim for early morning or late afternoon.
Shorten sessions and take longer walk breaks.
Keep an eye on “extra warm” days: high heat + high humidity is when horses struggle most.
There’s still an old myth that you shouldn’t use cold water on a hot horse. Evidence and current guidance supports aggressive cooling with cold water, applied repeatedly.
A practical cool-down routine (10–20 minutes)
Untack quickly (more skin exposed = better cooling).
Walk for a few minutes to let breathing settle.
Cold hose or pour water over large muscle areas (neck, chest, shoulders, belly, hindquarters).
Repeat: water warms fast on the body, so reapply regularly rather than one quick splash.
Keep going until your horse looks brighter and the water running off doesn’t instantly feel warm.
Do you need to scrape?
Some research and practitioner summaries suggest scraping may not improve cooling in some conditions and can reduce the cooling effect if it removes water too soon; repeated application of cold water is often emphasised instead.
What if you don’t have a hose?
Sponge or pour water from buckets, focusing on the big muscle groups, and repeat.
Move to shade + airflow immediately
Most horses will cope fine with good management—but it’s worth knowing what “too hot” looks like.
Red flags
Rapid breathing that doesn’t settle
Lethargy, weakness, wobbliness
Very high heart rate that stays high
Hot skin, dullness, or anxiety
Heavy sweating that turns to no sweating despite heat (a serious sign)
If you suspect heat stress: stop work, cool aggressively with cold water, move to shade and airflow, offer water, and contact your vet for advice—especially if symptoms don’t improve quickly. Guidance for hot-weather cooling stresses prompt, continued cooling rather than waiting.
Here’s a simple routine many owners use:
Water checked morning and afternoon
Shade available all day
Salt available (and electrolytes used when sweating demands it)
Ride timing adjusted (avoid the hottest part of the day)
Cooling plan ready (hose, buckets, sponge, shaded tie-up area)
Monitor recovery after work (breathing + attitude should steadily improve)